A GLANCE AT THE LASTEST ARTICLES OF LINGERIE.






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Brooklyn Union Argus
21 January 1878

                         FASHIONS.

              A GLANCE AT THE LASTEST ARTICLES OF LINGERIE.

How Laces and Ruches are Made into Beautiful Things for the Toilet 
 The Popularity of  Lace 
 Fashionable Hosiery.

	The manufacture of 'pretty things' is almost a spontaneous impulse with 
women, and now that the period of quiet days and long evenings has arrived. 
A special interest will be entertained. Articles of lingerie are so numerous 
and so varied nowadays too, that with a purse of moderate length, it becomes 
almost necessary to use domestic ingenuity in making up a portion of the 
necessary articles that comprise a supply; and if this were not the case 
there is the increasing round of gift-giving, and for this, lingerie 
certainly proves a most convenient outlet.

	Scarfs are always required in winter as a protection for the throat, and 
very beautiful ones can be crocheted with 'ici' wool, shetland zephyr, or 
chenille thread. When the latter is used the effect is soft and delicate, 
and the scarf warm, and if the material used is the finest, the scarf is 
often made to look as handsome as if of lace.

	A very pretty picture can be made of Tunisienne gauze. The shape is a 
square handkerchief, with one corner doubled over upon the larger one 
beneath, the upper portion being afterwards cut up at the shoulder line and 
trimmed with pipings of satin and fringe. Around the neck an upright 
pleating of crepe lisse appears, and the tichu, then trimmed, is fastened on 
the bust so as to form a surp?ce shaped opening. These graceful fichus are 
made of any fancy gauze, figured lace, both black and white, and frequently 
of fine linen cambric, trimmed with a border of French needlework, beneath 
which is placed a scant side plaiting of Valenciennes lace.

		NOVELTIES IN LINGERIE.

Something new in lingerie is always looked for at the holidays and new 
period of the year, and manufacturers are by no means backward in their 
productions this season. Among ruches for the neck there is the crepe lisse 
plaitings in several forms, one of which has a narrow hem on the edge, the 
ruche being ?aid in full, close sideplaits. Another ?ind, not so full, has a 
border of several rows of machine stitching, in white floss, and also in 
colors. Black lisse and black tulle ruches are provided for mourning 
service.

The varieties shown in Swiss muslin ruches are supplied by different styles 
of plaiting but it is observed that instead of the ecru tinted lace worm so 
extensively last season upon ruches of muslin white lace is preferred.

Where the bow for the neck, or jabot, is of real lace a close sideplaiting 
of double or triple tulle is preferred to any other for the neck of a dress, 
but a favorite real lace collar like the tie, loosely turned over at the 
neck, while the tulle plaiting is inside. Owing to the number of pompadour 
and surplice waists worn this season, many made up laces are in requisite 
shapes, and are called modesties. Many connections are now in the form of 
pompadour squares.

A decided novelty in lace is the 'necklace' consisting of a medallion, 
cross, square, or any fancy design, or set of designs, attached to a narrow 
band of lace corresponding, which passes around the neck. These come in 
Irish point, duchess, point appliqué, valenciennes, and a new and 
inexpensive lace called Princess. Nine dollars is the price of a showy 
duchesse lace necklace.

	ENTHUSIASM FOR LACE.

	Today, as in times gone by, lace lovers find themselves overtaken by a 
species of infatuation to which fashion by her influence adds an incessant 
stimulus. The revival of real laces, both for trimming uses and as an 
auxiliary to the toilet, is one of the prominent features of fashion at the 
present time, and it is quite possible that the manufacture of a few 
varieties may become a limited industry in this country.

	Popular lace is entirely unlike its former self, as shown by the prevailing 
choice of laces. For garniture for velvet and rich black silks, the 
handsomest lace newly imported is a combination of various stitches and 
kinds showing heaving outlines filled in with lighter work. The patterns are 
prominent, as for instance, a tall, slender palm leaf filled in with smaller 
designs. This lace is called point ragouse, is in high favor in Paris where 
it is seen on velvets and brocades. Irish point lace, measuring from six to 
eight inches, intended for silk velvet garments, cost $6 a yard. Shoppers 
who may at first glance count the cost of this lace are assured that it will 
'last forever, and washes like a piece of muslin.' The lace is extremely 
effective, and so simple in respect to manufacture that it ought to be made 
at home.

	LACE SCARFS AND PINS.

	The beauty of the new black lace scarfs and ties, and the great variety in 
the jeweled ornaments which fasten them have created a furora of dressing 
the neck with a wide, handsome lace scarf or a smaller back lace ?? 
embroidered in color, and held by the golden bar denominated a scarf pin.

	The newest styles in these scarf pins of an expensive kind are fern leaves 
of silver, or silver bars mounted with cameos cut in conchshell. These have 
earrings to correspond, and cost from five to right dollars per set.

	The scarfs when they are all black are usually of Spanish lace, half a yard 
wide, and two and a half long, but the smaller ties embroidered in bright 
colors, are newer and much richer, and form a beautiful finish to a 
handsome, all black toilet.  The very newest scarfs for the neck are triple 
fringes of silk, forming a sort of wide ruching with an embroidered center. 
These costs from $3 to $8. Another beautiful style is in delicate China 
silk, the ends embroidered in gay colors. The rolling fur collars attached 
to cloaks have made scarfs and ties much more fashionable than boas.

		FASHIONABLE HOISERY.

	New styles of hosiery in silk, cotton, and wool are shown in combinations 
of two colors, such as cardinal red with navy blue, seal brown with cardinal 
red, seal brown with royal blue, slate with pink, etc. The upper half of the 
stocking is woven in one color, the lower half in the other, and where they 
are joined above the ankle a finish is given by the introduction of hair 
line stripes and embroidery. Besides these novelties there are checkerboard 
and crossbarred designs.

	Expensive hosiery is wrought in bead work on a solid foundation, chiefly 
black, as, for example, gay floral patterns in red and pink beads are 
executed on black silk, such ornamentation appearing on the instep rather 
than on the side of the stocking. These styles range in price from $11 
upwards. Another very handsome novelty is 'camel’s hair embroidery', this 
being executed chiefly on black silk.  It appears on the instep, and derives 
the name from a resemblance to the work upon camel’s hair shawls, but it is 
done in silk. Prices range from $10 upwards.

	Manufacturers have done their part in presenting to the attention of the 
fashionable elegant ideas, which are not unworthy of the time and trouble 
expended in bringing them to perfection. Colored hosiery presents so many 
advantages over white that it seems hard to believe, that it will ever be 
out of vogue again.

	Ladies’ fleece-lined hose, white, colored, and unbleached, range in price 
from 40 cents to $1.50 per pair; wool merino hose from 50 cents to $2; wool 
and merino hose, all colors, range from 75 cents to $3 a pair; white hose 
commence at 25 cents; ladies’ coldred cotton hose vary in price from 50 
cents to $2 a pair; and a children’s in similar style, from 30 cents to 
$1.75 a pair ladies;’ spun silk hose range in price from $3.50 to $4; Derby 
ribbed, from $3.50 from $4.50, and French fancy silk, from $5 upward.



Transcriber: Susan Griffin
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