A HISTORICAL TOUR OF THE GREATEST STREET IN THE WORLD.......BROADWAY
THE CITY HALL PARK
Prior to 1911
1. SMALL PARKS THROUGHOUT THE CITY BEGAN ORIGINALLY AS POTTERS'
FIELDS.
Most of the small parks throughout the city began originally as
potters' fields, where the paupers and unknown dead were buried. The
northern part of the Fields was used in this way, and across where Chambers
Street now is was the Negro burying-ground of colonial times. The burials
here were usually held at night, when the Negro population got together and
buried their dead with weird rites and incantations___relics, probably, of
their African origin. Long after the burying-ground was disused and
forgotten, it was recalled to the people of a later generation when, in
digging a hole for a lamp post at the corner of Reade Street, several human
bones were exhumed.
2. THE PARK
With the restoration of peace, in 1783, and the remarkable subsequent
growth of the city, it was found that the City Hall in Wall Street was
inadequate for the needs of the municipality; so it was determined at the
beginning of the nineteenth century to build a new one. In 1802, a premium
was offered for the best plan for a new building, and the award was made to
Macomb and Maugin. The site selected was in the upper part of the Commons,
formerly called the Fields, and known since 1785, when it was enclosed, as
the Park. And the Park it remained pre-eminently until long after Central
Park came into existence and usurped its title. This first fence about the
Park was made of posts and rails, which soon gave way to pickets. It was
later decided to enclose the Park with an iron fence; but as the American
iron-workers were not able in those early days to make the required fence,
it was ordered from England. The new fence arrived on the last day of the
year 1821, and was put up during the following year. At the lower end of the
Park, four marble posts were erected as gateways, and their tops were joined
by iron scroll-work supporting lanterns. The whole Park could not have been
so fenced in, as Philip Hone says in his diary under date of May 15, 1834,
that the unsightly wooden railings in the Park were removed and gave place
to chestnut posts with iron chains, which would greatly improve the prospect
from his house opposite at Park Place. In 1820, Alderman Swartwout proposed
enlarging the Park by extending it to Ann, Beekman, and Nassau streets (its
original area up to Dongan's time) so as to make it nearly square. On the
eighth of May, 1827, four granite balls, taken, so it was said, from the
ruins of ancient Troy, were presented to the city by Captain John B.
Nicholson and placed on the tops of the granite pillars.
3. THE CONSTRUCTION OF CITY HALL
The corner-stone of the present City Hall was laid by Mayor Livingston
on September 20, 1893; but the building was not used until July 4, 1811, and
not fully completed until 1812. The building is of white marble brought from
Stockbridge, Massachusetts, at prices which caused several of the
contractors to fail, owing to the lack of cheap and convenient means of
transportation. This delayed the completion of the structure. The original
plans called for a marble building; but the matter was put into the hands of
an aldermanic committee who declared for freestone on account of the
expense, and also decided to cut down the size of the edifice. Upon the
solicitations of the architects, the building was restored to its first
size; and after the foundations had been carried above the ground, the
committee consented to the marble on all but the north side, which was built
of brownstone as a matter of economy. The architects showed that this
construction of marble would cost the city but $43,750 more than for brown
stone. The building was erected by day's work, the pay of the best skilled
mechanics ranging from one dollar to one and a quarter a day. In 1890, the
brownstone was painted white to resemble the rest of the building, and today
it is impossible to tell without the closest scrutiny whether it is marble
or not. The structure cost about half a million of dollars, and is a
contrast in the matter of cost with its near neighbor, the County
Court-house, which cost over fourteen millions.
4. CITY HALL EXPANSION
The City Hall is too well known to require description here. It was a
beautiful, symmetrical, stately building when first erected___it remains so
today, though somewhat dwarfed by the sky-scraping structures on Chambers
and other streets in its rear. Long may it stand with its historical
associations to mark the progress of the city. Since the formation of the
greater city, it has become entirely too small for the accommodation of the
offices of the different departments of the municipal government, and it is
now given over to the mayor, the Board of Aldermen, and the City Library. A
new municipal building is in course of erection at this writing (1911)
northeast of the Park on Centre Street, which, it is expected, will house
the city departments and save the municipality many millions of dollars that
it now pays for rent.
5. CITY HALL'S "GOVERNORS' ROOM"
The "Governors' Room" in the City Hall is well worth a visit. It
contains the portraits of nearly all the governors of the State from George
Clinton down to the present, the portraits of many of the mayors of the
city, and many articles of furniture and other relics connected with the
first Federal Congress, the opening of the Erie Canal, and with prominent
events in the history of the city and with prominent statesmen and citizens
of the olden times. Upon his visit to the city in 1824, Lafayette was
received with distinguished honors, and during his sojourn in New York held
daily receptions in the City Hall, where thousands of citizens waited upon
him. Other distinguished foreigners are received by the mayor in the
building.
6. CITY HALL A PART OF ALL THE GREAT CELEBRATIONS OF THE PAST.
The City Hall has borne its part in all the great celebrations of the
past____the opening of the Erie Canal, the admission of Croton water, the
laying of the Atlantic cable, the centenary of Washington's inauguration,
the Hudson-Fulton celebration of 1909, and many others. Our population is of
such a cosmopolitan character, with so many nationalities represented, that
it was formerly the custom to display the flags of the different peoples
from the City Hall upon their national holidays or fete days. This custom
offended many of the Americans of the city, and it was stopped by enactment
of the State legislature, February 22, 1895, which decreed that no flags
should be flown from public buildings throughout the State, except those of
the nation, the state, or the municipality. The four-faced clock in the
tower was for over half a century after its installation the standard by
which everybody set his timepiece; and "City Hall time," or "City time,"
became the criterion by which the accuracy of a timepiece was judged, or the
moment of any event determined.
The most imposing celebration ever held in the City Hall or in the
Park was that in jubilation over the admission of Croton water, when the
building was beautifully illuminated in a manner, so it is said, that has
never been surpassed even to the present. Another gala occasion was the
reception and celebration in honor of Cyrus W. Field upon his second attempt
to lay the Atlantic cable in 1858, which was partially successful, messages
being exchanged between this country and England before the cable broke.
During the illumination of the City Hall upon that occasion, the cupola
caught fire and was badly damaged, as well as the top story of the building.
For many months afterward, the City Hall presented an inelegant and careless
appearance with its front boarded up, as repairs were not started until some
time after the fire.
7. THE NEW YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY
On the twentieth of November, 1804, eleven gentlemen met in the
"picture room" of the City Hall and formed the New York Historical Society,
electing De Witt Clinton as its first president; but it was not until the
celebration of the bi-centenary of the discovery of the Hudson in 1809 that
the influence of the society was felt. Since that time it has grown apace,
and has done inestimable service in collecting and preserving all kinds of
material connected with the nation, the state, and the city.
8. TEA PARTIES
At one time, it was customary for the Common Council to be served
after its meetings with tea at the public expense. These tea parties were
pleasant and sociable; but in the course of time, they grew beyond simple
tea parties, and the aldermen were served with the best that the city
markets afforded in the way of fruit, fish, and game. Friends of the
aldermen, supporters, contractors, and lobbyists began to drop in, and the
liquid refreshments were poured from less innocent vessels than tea-pots. In
fact, the tea parties degenerated into orgies, held once a week at the
public expense, and aroused so much adverse criticism on the part of the
respectable portion of the community, that Mayor Harper put a stop to them
in 1839. They were resumed in 1852, when the character of the city
government had deteriorated very much from that of a quarter of a century
before.
9. THE GLORIOUS FOURTH OF JULY
In those earlier days, the Glorious Fourth was always celebrated with
much enthusiasm throughout the city, and the Park was the scene of great
gaiety. Booths were erected inside the railings, and here were sold roast
pig (rather heavy diet for July fourth), egg-nog, cider, spruce beer, and
other delectable dishes and beverages. The country people flocked to the
city to enjoy the parade of the militia and the fireworks and delights of
the Park, while the city boys flocked to the country to enjoy the green
apples and have a good time generally. In 1840, it was proposed to abolish
the booths, but they lasted for some years longer. Their cessation elicited
the general remark, says Charles H. Haswell, "The Fourth of July passed away
when the booths around City Hall Park was taken away.
10. THOSE WHO HAVE LAIN IN STATE IN THE CITY HALL.
The bodies of several persons for whom the city mourned and whom it
wished to honor have lain in state in the City Hall. Among these were
President Lincoln in April, 1865, and General Grant in August, 1885, and
thousands of their sorrowing countrymen looked upon their dead faces. The
body of John Howard Payne, the author of Home, Sweet Home, was brought back
from Tunis, Africa, in 1883 and lay in state at the City Hall. It was
eminently fitting that the author of the sweetest song in the English
language should rest in his own beloved country. Another whose memory the
city thus honored was General Worth, a son of the state and a distinguished
soldier.
11. OTHER MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
Sunk in the pavement in front of the main entrance of the City Hall is
a tablet inscribed with the fact that, "At this place, 24th March, 1900,
Hon. Robert A. Van Wyck made the first excavation for the Underground
Railway." The subway station is only a few yards away.
During the Civil War, the lower end of the Park, where the post-office
now stands, was occupied by temporary barracks used for the accommodation of
the Federal soldiers that were stationed in the city. The adjoining fountain
was made use of by the soldiers for performing their ablutions.
Lotteries were recognized means of obtaining money for public purposes
during the first half of the nineteenth century; they were held in front of
the City Hall in the presence of an alderman. Meetings of all kinds were
held by the citizens in the Park; as, for example, in 1821, when the
clergymen of the city called a meeting to express disapprobation of Sunday
steamboat excursions, which were becoming very popular. Fully five thousand
persons were present, who took the conduct of affairs out of the hands of
the clergymen and expressed by vote their disapproval of the interference of
the clergy. Many abolition meetings also were held here; and on August 27,
1835, a small but select meeting was held which expressed itself as opposed
to the action of the Abolitionists.
12. THE NEW YORK POST-OFFICE
The imposing, but ugly, building now occupying the southern end of the
Park triangle is the New York post-office. The ground was acquired from the
city, and the building was first occupied by the Federal Government on
September 1, 1875. Its cost was between $6,000,000 and $7,000,000. It
contains not only the post-office proper, but also the United States courts
of this district and the rooms of many Federal officials. So rapid has been
the growth of the city that the building is entirely inadequate for the
demands made upon it, and a new post-office is now (1911) in course of
construction on the plot of ground above the tunnels of the Pennsylvania
railroad, between Eighth and Ninth avenues and Thirty-first and
Thirty-second streets.
13. NATHAN HALE (The Statue)
Just north of the post-office, facing Broadway, is a statue bearing
the following inscription: "Nathan Hale, a captain in the Regular Army of
the United States, who gave his life for his country in the City of New
York, September 26, 1776. "My only regret is that I have but one life to
give for my country.' " The statue is the work of the sculptor, Frederick
Macmonnies, and it was erected by the Society of the Sons of the Revolution
and unveiled on November 25, 1893, the anniversary of the evacuation of the
city by the British.
No picture of Hale exists, but the sculptor has followed the
description of Hale's physical appearance as given by Captain Hull and other
friends of the martyred spy. The sculptor has succeeded in a remarkable
degree in depicting the character of Hale and of portraying his honesty,
candor, and disinterestedness as his friends knew him, showing that he had
fully entered into Hale's life and being. A few years ago, I was showing the
statue to an English friend and telling him Hale's story. After a long look
at the bronze face, the Englishman said: "If that is a correct picture of
Hale, surely no man was less fitted to be a spy than he." Many people have
an idea that Hale was hanged within the Park and that he had been imprisoned
within the "Provost," but this is erroneous. The spot of his execution is
unknown; but from the best evidence available, he was hanged in front of the
British artillery camp near the Beekman mansion at Turtle Bay on the East
River, near First Avenue and Fifty-first Street.* (See monograph on Nathan
Hale by Professor Johnson of the City College from which are taken most of
the statements concerning Hale.)
14. NATHAN HALE (The Person)
Nathan Hale was born in Coventry, Connecticut, in 1755. He was
graduated from Yale College in 1773 and afterwards taught school at East
Haddam and in New London in his native State. Upon the outbreak of the
Revolution, he was engaged on recruiting duty for some time and then
accompanied Colonel Webb's regiment to the fortifications about Boston,
holding the position of captain. Upon the reorganization of the Continental
army, he became a captain in the 19th Regiment of Foot, Colonel Webb
commanding. His regiment formed part of Heath's brigade, which was
dispatched to New York immediately after the evacuation of Boston by Sir
William Howe. After the battle of Long Island, a battalion of rangers was
formed under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Knowlton of Hale's regiment,
"to be the eyes and ears of the army," and Hale was selected by Knowlton to
be one of his captains.
Washington was anxious to know what fortifications had been erected by
Howe and what dispositions he had made of the British troops. He called upon
Knowlton to furnish a spy, and Hale volunteered. Disguised as a Dutch
school-master, Hale went to Norwalk in Connecticut and crossed the Sound to
Long Island. This was the last seen of him by any of his friends.
On the afternoon of Sunday, September 26, 1776, Captain Montressor of
Howe's staff, chief engineer of the British army, visited the American lines
under a flag of truce. He was met by General Putnam, Adjutant-General Reed,
Alexander Hamilton, William hull, and other. In the course of conversation,
Montressor stated that a captain of rangers had been hanged that morning as
a spy. Hull, who was a classmate and intimate friend of Hale, at once asked
the name of the captain; whereupon Montressor related the incidents of the
execution. Hale had been caught red-handed, the incriminating papers had
been found on him, and he had at once admitted his mission. On the way to
the execution by the Provost-Marshal Cunningham, Montressor, moved by pity
at the sight of the handsome, ingenuous youth, invited Hale within his tent
while preparations were making for the execution. Montressor engaged Hale in
conversation, learned his name and rank, and expressed the opinion that Hale
must regret having undertaken a mission so foreign to his rank and character
and ending in an ignominious death; whereupon Hale gave his immortal reply.
This, briefly, is the story of Nathan Hale as we know it from the account
given by William Hull. Many legends have grown up in the course of time,
but, as they lack confirmation, they must be considered as surmises and
probabilities not capable of proof.
15. CONGRESS DECLARES WAR AGAINST GREAT BRITAIN ON JUNE 18, 1812.
On the eighteenth of June, 1812, Congress declared war against Great
Britain, word of which reached New York two days later. On the
twenty-fourth, in compliance with the call of the Common Council, a great
number of the citizens met at noon in the Park, facing the City Hall.
Colonel Henry Rutgers was chairman, and Colonel Marinus Willet, secretary of
the meeting. Notwithstanding the divergence of opinions in regard to the
expediency of the war a set of strong and patriotic resolutions was
unanimously adopted, approving the action of the Government and pledging to
its support "their lives, their fortunes, and their sacred honors." Within
four months thereafter, the individual enterprise of the citizens had fitted
out and sent to sea twenty-six privateers, carrying two hundred and twelve
guns and over twenty-two thousand men.
But the war went steadily against the United States, and at last all
the vessels of our little navy were either captured or blockaded in our
ports. British vessels of war had approached through the Sound as far as
Throgg's Neck, now within the city of New York in the Borough of the Bronx.
The coast was blockaded from Georgia to Maine, and the work of the British
fleets had ceased to be war and had become devastation.
Alarmed at these reports from all sections of the coast and realizing
the unprepareddness of New York to withstand an anticipated attack, the
Common council called a meeting in the Park, August 11, 1814, to take
measures for the protection of the city. Colonel Rutgers was chairman as
before; and while the committee was drawing up a set of resolutions the old
veteran of the Revolution, Marinus Willett, aroused the enthusiasm of the
assemblage by tales of the first great struggle with Great Britain, and
urged them to support their leaders to the end. A set of resolutions was
unanimously carried, declaring their resolve to unite in arms on the
approach of the enemy and to defend the city to the last extremity, and
urging all citizens to enroll in the militia or naval service, to assist in
the public works, and by every means in their power to aid the authorities
in their efforts to secure the public safety.
There is no doubt that the inhabitants of New York were thoroughly
scared; for so numerous were the volunteers to work on the
fortifications___merchants, masons, carpenters, shoemakers, artisans of all
trades, and incorporated societies___that the authorities had to beg some of
them to wait from day to day for want of room to place them. The whole city
wore a martial aspect, drilling was going on everywhere, and citizens of all
classes and ranks could be seen hurrying through the streets with pick or
shovel to help construct the public works of defence. Many of these works in
the harbor have been enlarged and modernized and constitute the defences of
the New York of to-day. Of those at the upper end of the city___at McGowan's
Pass and across the island at various points__two of the block-houses and
traces of the fortifications remain__all now guarded and protected from
injury by our local patriotic societies. Happily, there was no need for all
this preparation, for the treaty of peace was signed at Ghent on the
Twenty-fourth of December of the same year, and the war was over.
16. THE FIRST BUSINESS PANIC OF 1837
In 1837, there occurred the first great business panic with which the
nation has been visited, and New York was as hard hit as the rest of the
country. Unfortunately no practical measures were at first instituted to
relieve the distresses of the working classes, and advantage was taken of
the opportunity by politicians and demagogues to inflame the passions of the
ignorant and the vicious. On the tenth of February, there appeared the
following notice:
BREAD, MEAT, RENT, FUEL!!
Their prices must come down!
The voice of the People will be heard, and must prevail
The People will meet in the Park, rain or shine, at 4 o'clock Monday
afternoon, to inquire into the cause of the present unexampled distress and
to devise a suitaable remedy. All friends of humanity, determined to resist
monopolists and extortionists, are invited to attend.
Moses Jacques
Daniel Gorham
Paulus Heddle
John Windy
Daniel A. Robinson
Alexander Ming, Jr.
Warden Hayward
Elijah F. Crane
New York, Feb. 10, 1837
Pursuant to the call, fully six thousand persons assembled in front of
the City Hall, and Moses Jacques was chosen chairman. There was no lack of
speakers: and the multitude was divided up into groups listening to the
different orators, the burden of each one's speech consisting chiefly of
denunciation of the rich, of land-lords, and of the dealers in provisions,
especially of flour. The chief offender in the eyes of the mob was the firm
of Eli Hart & Co.; and one of the speakers, having aroused his hearers to
the highest pitch, exlaimed:
"Fellow-citizens, Eli Hart & Company have now fifty-three thousand
barrels of flour in their store; let us go and offer them eight dollars a
barrel for it, and if they do not accept it____'
Here he was interrupted, as Patrick Henry had been in a much more
famous speech, and concluded by saying in a significant tone, " If they will
not accept it___we will depart in peace."
The hint was sufficient, and the great crowd rushed down Broadway to
Dey Street, increasing in numbers and excitement until they reached
Washington Street, when they became a roaring mob. Hart's store was attacked
and the barrels of flour were rolled into the street and broken open, until
some police arrived on the scene, when there was a momentary lull in the
operations. The police were soon mastered by the frenzied mob, and the work
of destruction went on until the appearance of the militia, who had been
hurriedly summoned by the mayor, at sight of whom the mob dispersed. An army
of women and boys appeared during the height of the destruction and gathered
up the spilled flour in pails, bags, and other vessels. Several other flour
stores in the vicinity were attacked during the excitement, and one thousand
bushels of wheat and six hundred barrels of flour were emptied into the
street. The usual result followed___flour became dearer than before, and the
ringleaders of the mob, the politicians and demagogues who had incited them
to riot, went unpunished, though some of their dupes went to prison.
17. THE PANIC OF 1857
In 1857, during the panic and distress of that year, crowds of the
unemployed flocked into the Park and threatened the authorities unless they
were given food and work. Their riotous action was repressed by giving them
work in Central Park, recently purchased and then in course of development.
The charitable societies and people of the city established soup kitchens
for the needy and starving thousands, so that danger of an uprising was
averted.
18. THE DRAFT RIOT OF 1863
In the year 1863, it was necessary for the Federal Government to
institute a draft to supply the depleted armies of the nation, then engaged
in a life and death struggle for the preservation of the Union. The draft
went into effect in New York on July eleventh, and was followed by riots in
several parts of the city. One of the objects of attack by the rioters was
the building of the New York Tribune on Park Row. On the thirteenth,
Governor Horatio Seymour arrived in the city and went to the City Hall. A
great crowd of rioters who had resumed their attack on the Tribune building
heard of his presence and flocked into the Park and were addressed by the
governor. He was overcome by the sight of the riotous mob, and either lost
his head or purposely attempted to conciliate them by making them believe he
was friendly to them and their actions. He even went so far as to call them
"My friends." The mob cheered him to the echo, and thus encouraged,
dispersed to resume their work of murder and destruction.
There were two points in Broadway at which danger was expected from
the rioters; these were No. 1190, where the provost-marshal had established
one of the wheels for drawing names, the other was at Broadway and
Twenty-second Street, where was the office of U.S. Collector of Internal
Revenue, George P. Putnam. The drawing lasted during the forenoon of July
eleventh at 1190, but was stopped by the marshal at that time, as the riot
had begun. Neither place was attacked, though the guardians of both were on
watch incessantly for several days. In Broadway, itself, a mob was attacked
and scattered in the nieghborhood of Bleecker Street by the police held in
reserve at police headquarters in Mulberry Street, the rioters being at the
time on their way to attack that building. The fortunate arrival of the
Seventh Regiment and the active efforts of the few officers and troops in
the city put down the riot on the fourth day. The dearth of troops was due
to the fact that they had been drawn upon to sustain Meade in his efforts to
turn the tide of Confederate invasion in Pennsylvania, culminating in the
victory at Gettysburg.
19. THE NEW COUNTY COURT-HOUSE
In 1861, the legislature authorized the erection of a new county
court-house at an expenditure of not more than $250,000. The site selected
was that formerly occupied by the ancient almshouse in rear of the City
Hall. The building was first used in 1867, but was not completed for many
years afterwards. Its construction was the most gigantic steal of the many
with which New York has been inflicted by its political "bosses" and
occurred during the days of the "Tweed Ring." When the building was finally
completed, it had cost the city over $14,000,000, most of which was without
authority of law, and over half of which found its way into the pockets of
the Ring.
20. A NEW SITE FOR THE COUNTY COURT-HOUSE
In 1903, it became apparent that the present county court-house would
not long answer the demands made upon it, and a committee was appointed to
select a new site. After many sites had been considered, it was determined
in February, 1910, that the most available was that at the north end of the
Park, extending from Broadway to Park Row; and the mayor and governor both
approved the bill to place the court-house there. The plans call for a
ten-story structure, equipped with modern sanitary and ventilating systems,
in which the present building is sadly lacking, and incorporating the
present edifice. The chief point to recommend this site is that the city
owns the land. The lovers of the City Beautiful at once attacked the plan,
and maintained that it would be cheaper for the city in the end to spend
several millions for a new site, rather than still further to encroach upon
the limits of the Park. No decision as to site having been arrived at,
Senator Stillwell introduced a bill in the Legislature of 1911 making it
mandatory upon the authorities to use the Park site and to appropriate the
necessary money for the construction of the court-house within four months
after the passage of the bill. Notwithstanding the almost unanimous
opposition of the newspapers and the civic societies, the iniquitous measure
was railroaded through the Legislature and sent to the Mayor for his
consideration. Mayor Gaynor gave a public hearing and promptly vetoed the
bill and returned it to Albany in July; but the bill was at once
re-introduced, with some changes to meet the Mayor's objections. The matter
was still pending when this volume went to press. The committee of judges
has been in existence eight years and has succeeded in not selecting a
site___another example of the law's delay.
21. THE ROTUNDA
East of the court-house and fronting on Chambers Street there formerly
stood a circular building called the Rotunda. The ground was secured from
the city in 1816 on a ten years' lease by John Vanderlyn the artist, a
protege and friend of Aaron Burr; and the building was erected the following
year. It was used for panoramic displays of the battle of Waterloo, the
Palace and Garden of Versailles, and of other places and events, as well as
serving as an art gallery. In 1832, there were exhibited pictures of Adam
and Eve, who were shown in a semi-nude condition. This shocked a large
portion of the community, who had not yet been educated up (or down) to such
impropriety, and the exhibition was much censured. Of course, everybody went
to see for himself, there were the same old arguments for the nude in art
that we hear even today___and the exhibition was a financial success. The
building was used for a time in 1849 as the city post-office during the
cholera epidemic of that year; later it was used for municipal purposes. It
gave way in 1852 to the ugly, square brown-stone building now occupying the
site which is used for the City Court, and which was formerly occupied by
the criminal courts until the construction of the new Criminal Court
building on Centre Street in 1894.
Source: The Greatest Street in the World (The story of Broadway, old and
New, from the Bowling Green to Albany)
Author: Stephen Jenkins
Publisher: G.P. Putnam's Sons-New York and London
The Knickerbocker Press
Copyright: 1911
________________________________________________
Researched and Transcribed by Miriam Medina
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